Thomas Perez had no idea of his future professional path when he came from El Salvador to visit his brother for a summer in Pacific Grove, California. The natural beauty of the area captivated him and in 1984, he returned to finish middle school and high school on the Monterey Peninsula.
After high school it was his dream to go to culinary school but instead he went to work in a restaurant in Tiburon. Then in 1989, Perez got a job as a busboy at Highlands Inn in Carmel. There, during the renowned Masters of Food & Wine event, he attended a wine tasting, fell in love with the experience and forgot all about cooking.
Altogether, Perez worked ten years at Highlands Inn, first as a waiter, and then as sommelier. He worked at ten of the annual Masters of Food & Wine events. “The influence and opportunity to learn was unbelievable,” he says. “To be exposed to such levels of service and to be given the chance to taste world-class foods and wines was fantastic.“ During those years he also went to Napa, Sonoma and Santa Barbara to experience winemaking first hand.
In 1998, Thomas broadened his knowledge further by traveling to the wine regions of Germany, visiting the wineries of Robert Weil, Franz Kunstler, and Bernd Phillipi. Then he went to France visiting the regions of Champagne, Burgundy and Alsace, calling at Moet Chandon, Taittinger, Billecart Salmon and Louis Roederer, Domaine Dujac, Domaine Romanee-Conti, Domaine LeFlaive, Dominic Lafon, Domaine Bratagna, Comte Georges de Vogue, Trimbac and others. Also in that year, he enrolled in the wine and spirits program organized by Doug Olson in San Francisco. And he was hired as sommelier at Bernardus Lodge in Carmel Valley.
Eager to increase his knowledge, in 2001 he moved to Spain to attend Escuela Superior de Enologia del Pais Vasco where he received his Masters degree in Oenology and Viticulture. “I wanted to go to school in a European country because of the history of winemaking there,” says Thomas. “My first choice would probably have been France but since Spanish is my native language, I selected the school in Rioja. While attending school, I made the time to work the harvest in 2002 with Jean Francois at Domaine Coche-Dury in Meursault, France, and in 2003 with Fidel Fernandez at Bodegas Luis Cañas Villanueva de Alava, Spain.”
Upon graduating in 2004, Perez returned to Monterey Peninsula where he went to work at L’Auberge Carmel. “In 2001, David Fink had wanted me to open Bouchée but at that time I was determined to finish my schooling,” says Thomas. “David and I stayed in touch during my schooling in Spain so I knew he was opening a new hotel and restaurant. I was delighted to join his team and begin working at L’Auberge Carmel.”
For a wine director, Aubergine, the 12-table restaurant at L’Auberge Carmel could be the ideal post. There chef Christophe Grosjean has created a dining experience developed from a sterling career in the U.S. and Europe. Each night he presents diners multi-course menus. Selected wines accompany every course. Flavors may range progressively from tart and spicy, to piquant and savory, to rich and succulent, in the course of a meal. Then there are desserts. “Matching wines with Christophe’s wide palette of flavors is a challenge I look forward to every day,” states Perez.
In addition, Perez has developed and directs the wine programs at Cantinetta Luca in Carmel, and newly opened Cantinetta Piero in Yountville, California.
From El Salvador to Carmel-by-the-Sea, with Germany, France and Spain in between, Thomas has embraced the international aspects of wine, pursuing knowledge and experience with a passionate interest. It may be somewhat unusual for a young man from El Salvador to embark on a career at the highest levels of food and wine but given Thomas’ personality, palate and passion, it’s certainly not a surprise.
Q&A with Thomas Perez, Wine Director
How do you develop a wine list?
I determine the list primarily by quality, yet there are of course many other factors to think about. The first step is to consider the budget. Once I know the financial plan I can choose wines accordingly. From there I will fill in varietals and any weak spots in a certain category. It’s a living process. At Aubergine my focus is on small producers, at Cantinetta Luca, I’m looking for wines that are fun and affordable. I taste with purveyors once a week and add anywhere between five to ten wines per week. So generally speaking there is usually something new for diners to taste and enjoy.
Tell us about the wine list Cantinetta Luca.
It’s fun and challenging for everyone! I think it gives the staff and our guests the opportunity to broaden their knowledge, myself included.
With the wine list at Cantinetta Luca I wanted to do something different and unique. The list is completely Italian. It gives diners a chance to learn about and taste wines that they may not have the opportunity to explore very often. We have approximately 400 labels on the list. Prices range from $25-500.
We also feature wines by the glass at Cantinetta Luca and we change those featured wines weekly. For example recently we were pouring a white wine from from Campania, Fiano di Avellino at $10 per glass. Or a Dolcetto d' Alba from Piemonte for $12. Both were delicious with many of chef Jason’s foods.
The wine list at Aubergine represents the world’s great wine regions with bottles from the top producers and great vintages, (France and California being the leaders) We also focus on limited allocation wines for this list.
Do you have a favorite varietal?
Actually I don't have one. I like wines with great character, balance and a good acidity. If forced to choose one varietal I would select pinot noir, sometimes.
Please share a personal favorite food and wine pairing.
Scottish wild grouse terrine with Pink Moscato. it might seems silly, but the terrine being thick and rich, needs something light, fresh and vibrant to cleanse your palette. It’s delicious.
Explain how you create food & wine pairings at Aubergine.
I continually taste all of the items on the menu, although I'm familiar with foods because I used to cook myself. When Christophe adds new dishes to the menu, which can be daily, I may already have a wine in mind to accompany that dish. As time goes by I know his style of cooking so when I'm tasting a new wine I am already thinking of Christophe’s food and what specific dish it would pair with. On occasion Christophe tastes the wines I’ve selected and he usually agrees with the pairing.
Looking ahead, what special events are you working on?
We’re going to bring wine makers to be guest sommeliers at Aubergine beginning in April. The first guest wine maker/sommelier will be Emmanuel Kemiji of Miura Vineyards on April 23. On July 16, Dan Kosta of Kosta Browne Winery will join us. We will fill-in May and June with other special guests. Naturally there will be wineries other than the guest wine maker wines in order to maintain the perfect pairing for each course.
What do you like to do in your spare time?
I like to cook at home with my wife and drink wine. And when I have the time I enjoy playing golf.