Ron Mendoza is the executive pastry chef for L’Auberge Carmel and its sister properties in Carmel, California, Bouchée Bistro and Cantinetta Luca. Formerly of Sona and Boule in Los Angeles and The French Laundry in Yountville, Mendoza brings years of training and experience to his new position.
After working in retail, Mendoza began his culinary career at the age of 25 when he enrolled at the California School of Culinary Arts in Pasadena, CA. During his studies, he joined Joachim Splichal’s Patina Group, starting on the hot line of Nick and Stef’s steakhouse. He soon advanced to Patina Restaurant where he began rigorous pastry training under Michelle Myers. He went on to work for David Myers at Restaurant Jaan in both savory and pastry areas. Ron then assumed the pastry chef position at Ortolan in Los Angeles and with it, the opportunity to work with critically acclaimed chef Christophe Eme. It was at that time that Ron was recognized as a “Rising Star” by Star Chefs.com.
His successful working relationship David and Michelle Myers resumed when they asked him to join the team at their acclaimed restaurant, Sona. When the couple opened Boule Patisserie in Los Angeles, Ron become the director of operations there, overseeing the launch of one of city’s most highly regarded specialty pastry shops.
In 2006 he became pastry sous chef at Thomas Keller’s famed French Laundry in Yountville, Napa Valley, California.
Mendoza’s style is creative and modern but based in classic technique. “Everything starts with fruit,” he says “even if it’s not the main component. Then I strive for a balance of flavors. The best desserts are made in the moment, and textures are key for a fully composed dish.”
He cites as his heroes Pierre Herme, Albert Adria, and Oriol Balaguer. “They are classically trained,” Ron notes, “but innovative. They think outside the box in terms of flavors, textures and techniques.”
As far as his own creations, Ron feels there is much room for exploration and development. “Herbs are very under used in the pastry arts,” he says. “They add such freshness.” As for current and future trends, he sees “the cross of savory and sweet, using far more ingredients, like spices, herbs and vegetables, and using cooking techniques like sautéing and braising.”
Yet, when asked about his personal favorites for dessert, the response is a bit more conventional. “Ice cream,” he says, “Tahitian vanilla. And gooey chocolate chip cookies.”
Q. What is your philosophy on food?
RM - Not to sound cliché, but everything starts with ingredients. I have been fortunate to work in California where the produce is consistently better and more varied than anywhere else. Because of the produce, I believe food should be immediate. I try not to make desserts that are too calculated. This week strawberries may shine, next week it could be peaches, that sets off a whole other direction on where a dessert may go.
Q. Tell us about the desserts at Aubergine.
RM - Our menu has grown since I first started. From a narrow tasting menu to a more a la carte style. Now I have a rotation of four dishes. Two of them focus on chocolate, one more would be a lighter dish, and the last would be more up for grabs as to whatever inspires me. I try to keep these going for about 4 weeks, but sometimes they evolve into something else the next day.
Q. Do you have any signature desserts?
Not really, because you can’t have a strawberry tart or roasted pears all year long. Seasons change, so do desserts. Though I do have some favorite flavor combinations. They seem to recycle themselves. RON PLEASE GIVE EXAMPLES HERE OF A FEW OF YOUR FAVORITE FLAVOR COMBINATIONS.
Q. Where do find inspiration?
RM - Inspiration comes from everywhere. The product itself of course. But a lot comes from outside the food world. Music, art, architecture, film. All various disciplines that take creativity and allow me to express a personal style.
Q. What are some of your favorite kitchen tools?
RM - The Internet is the modern chef’s tool. Cookbooks. My spoons, I have about 30 of them, each with a story on how I got them, a plastic bench scraper, and good round bottom bowls, an open mind. I get really tense when I don’t have the proper tools. How can you succeed without the right tools?
Q. Please share some essential tools for the home cook?
RM - Honestly, I would tell someone to have patience and fun. When you are cooking at home, just the act of giving is the best gesture. No one is going to say it wasn’t worth the money after eating at your house. Cooking in a professional restaurant teaches you respect for the product, that is something lacking in home cooks.
Q. Do you have any tips for dessert successes?
RM - Keep it fresh and simple, or at least simple to your abilities. Make what you like to eat.
Q. What comes to mind when you begin thinking of holiday desserts?
RM - I immediately think of spices such as nutmeg, cinnamon, clove. Rich buttery cookies. Caramelized apples and pears. Oranges with chocolate.
Q. What is your personal favorite dessert?
“Ice cream, Tahitian vanilla. And gooey chocolate chip cookies.”
Q. What do you like to do in your free time?
RM - Well, with making desserts for three restaurants there is not much free time, but I do enjoy movies, reading, playing guitar, and driving along the Monterey coast watching the seals and otters.